BY BRIAN DOLAN AND KEN HELM

EDITED AND ARRANGED BY JERRY HELM

Having just finished our paperwork in Santa Rosalia, we sat down in the shade of the PALAPA OF KNOWLEDGE with a couple of cold ones, two pencils, and lots of paper. If you are contemplating a trip to this really neat town, we hope that our effort will aid in getting you through the red tape required here.

  Before you leave San Carlos, you need to take the following to the Marina office:

       Boat Registration
       Visa for each person on the boat
       Vehicle Permit
       $10 fee

The folks at the office will do the rest. Please give Then at least 24 hours to do the work

    II: While still in San Carlos, be sure to obtain:

        4 copies of signed exit permit (despacho)
        Several blank copies of despacho for use in Santa Rosalia.

    III Immigration: Now you are in the marina in Santa Rosalia. Walk south past the locomotive
        and go into the white building on the left, second floor, north side.

        Submit: 4 despachos Copy of visa for each person
        Obtain: 3 stamped despachos. Immigration keeps one.

    IV Ask Immigration if you can do the exit process at this time (if you plan to leave in
       two days or less)To exit you need to:
       Complete the exit form and make copies (at least 4). Immigration does not have copy
       machine. You must go up main street toward Eiffel church, stop at Farmacia across
       street and make copies there. Very nice people in this farmacia. They are used to
       gringo boaters and their problems.

      Obtain: Signed exit forms via carbon on 4 copies. One stamped despacho

    V Customs: Go south down the Trans Peninsular Highway past the Ferry Terminal. On your
      left will be the large, impressive Port Captain's building. To its right will be a
      nondescript little shed, totally unmarked. This is the Customs Office.

      Submit: 3 stamped despachos Copy of boat registration
                    Fill out customs forms for your boat. When it asks for you boat's tonnage,
                    put down 5 tons gross and 3 tons net. They don't like to see boats of lesser
                    tonnage in their port. Pay Customs Duty Fee--approx 4 pesos.
      Obtain: 2 stamped despachos
                    1 receipt for duty fee

    VI Port Captain Entry: Go into the impressive building (entrance is on waterfront side).
       Stop at window immediately inside the entrance. Gerardo was on duty the day we visited.
       He happily accepted 20 pesos to help things move along. This may not be necessary, but
       we were tired and willing to do anything to grease the wheels.

      Submit: Customs Receipt
                     2 stamped despachos
      Obtain: I stamped despacho

You are now checked into the Port. If you are leaving within two days, try to get exit work done at this time. If not, take a break and get exit work done two days before you leave.
    VII Port Captain Exit:

        Submit: 4 signed exit forms from Immigration. They will process and stamped.
        Obtain: 3 complete exit forms.

Now you are finished, and you have met some interesting and pretty nice people (for bureaucrats) and have seen much of the town. You've worked up a pretty good appetite (or thirst) and are ready for a refreshing break. Remember to be pleasant and never show annoyance or arrogance. If you do, you might be required to do this dance forever.

PS: When you go to Mulege, the whole thing takes 15 minutes in the Port Captain's office located to
the left of the sport fishing dock. He's closed on Saturday and Sunday, so if you are just in for the pig roast you can skip him entirely.

PPS: Word of warning: the Santa Rosalia Port Captain records every craft entering the harbor (excluding pangas). Garry Morris entered before dawn, left shortly thereafter and avoided the whole thing. We have heard horror stories of boat confiscation and huge fines for people who did not choose to do the PORT CAPTAIN SHUFFLE.

Are you confused? So were we, but it all sorted itself out--somehow. Enjoy your trip.