Bill Ahrens and I sailed out at 4 p.m. Wednesday, Nov 1. We were
accompanied by Scott Sebree and Loretta Peto on "Half Cat" and the brothers
Wellington on "Alissa"-another Catalina 25. It was blowing hard from the NW with
very lumpy seas and lots of spray. We decided to duck into Catalina Cove for a few hours
and see if things would calm down a bit. At 11 p.m. it seemed better, so we went out and
told the others we'd report back.
Once around Punta Doble at the entrance to the San Carlos channel, we
found winds in the low twenties, but the seas were now regular with no drenching spray, so
we called the other folks out and off we went. About an hour later the Wellingtons called
and said they had a weather report (how they got THAT no one knows) which indicated bad
stuff ahead, and they were turning back. We said bye bye and continued. The night was
fine; we are lying with the storm jib and a single reef.
Along about dawn (05:30) the wind went down into the teens, the sun
shone brightly, we started the engine and changed to the working jib. Then proceeded into
Santa Rosalia about 2 p.m. Cleaned up and went to inner at the chicken place. Very good.
Let's see, that was Thursday. Nov 2-the DAY OF THE DEAD.
Brrrr. Crowds
of people climbing the hill to the cemetery to put out decorations and food for their
deceased relative and friends. The town was very, very quiet. The port captain was closed,
and, we were told, might not reopen due to a government employees' strike. That was good
news, and we slept well that night. Even the squid fishermen in their noisy pangas took
the night off, which made things really spookily silent. They usually zoom out at sunset
and return whenever their open boats are loaded with big (5 to ten feet long) squid. That
means they ROAR back into the harbor at irregular intervals all night long.
Friday. Nov 3, we heard that the port captain was, indeed, open, so
with heavy hearts we embarked on the paper work rounds. This time, however, we knew the
drill and went to all three offices (immigration, customs, and port captain) and got
everything done smoothly. Total time-including filling out and copying the leaving paper
one hour and fifteen minutes. Definitely a new record!
Scott and Loretta were impressed. They had heard the many horror
stories of the Santa Rosalia shuffle and its trips back and forth to the pharmacia with
its copy machine.
We spent the rest of the day ratting around the town visiting the
Eiffel church, the mining museum (closed, naturally, but we peered in through the
windows), and the old hotel which used to house visiting French dignitaries during the hey
day of the French-run copper mine. Had a nice dinner at a pretty restaurant called
"El Muelle" downtown. Mark it for a visit next time.
Saturday morning Nov 4, much to our wondering eyes' surprise, there
were the Wellingtons tied up (their boat, that's) in the dock at our pier (how's that,
Bo?). A word about them. Richard W. owns "Alissa" which he sails mainly on Lake
Mead. His older bro, Roy, lives in Granville, 0, and sails an Island Packet 30 on Lake
Erie. Roy is a CO Auxiliary type and does everything by the book. He had more fancy
navigation gear than I had ever seen before. Richard had heard of our cruise when I sent
some stuff about our voyage to Loreto and Escondido last May to the "Catalina
Mainsheet" (a magazine for Catalina owners). Anyhow, they were too late to do the
paperwork since immigration is closed on Saturday.
We wanted to shove off for Mulege, and Scott and Loretta decided to
stay put, take a cab to Mulege (their boat has too much draft to get in there) for the pig
roast, and go on to Concepcion with "Alissa" Monday.
We sailed easily south, past Punta Chivato with its newly remodeled and
reopened hotel, and were lining up for Mulege around 4 p.m. Bill decided to take the
tiller, and I was checking the compass for the passage in.
Bill is a very confident guy. Perhaps a bit too confident. We were
idling along, and he says, "No reason why we can't go a little fasten" And he
nudges the throttle up somewhat. About this time I'm saying, "come right a bit,"
and was about to say, "bring her back down to idle." It's my fault that I did
not say that first.
Then the rocks appeared. The right turn would have done it, but we were
going a tad too fast. We bonked a rock with the port side of our hull then slid on into
the Harbor, anchored, and took a look at the gouge. We were not taking on any water, and a
look through the mask showed merely a scratch in the gel coat, some paint scraped off, and
no serious damage.
We dinghied in got a room at the Hotel Serenidad (site of the famous
Saturday night pig roasts) and took turns showering and preening for the evening's
festivities. Someone knocked on the door, and there stood Scott, Loretta, and the brothers
W! They had succeeded in getting a cab to take them the 80-mile round trip for $50.
Including a three-hour wait whilst they ate. The dinner was fine; they left around 9, and
we retired around midnight.
Sunday. Nov 5, Bill and I toured the town, checked the anchor and hull
once more, and talked to a local yachtie who informed us of another, MUCH BETTER, channel
into the harbon Ask me for the updated info, or call Rick on channel 16 as you approach
that cute little town.
Monday morning. Nov 6, 1 did the port captain stuff there. Jose Miguel
is a nice old abuelo-type who remembered me from previous trips. He banged away on his
huge Olympia typewriter and produced impressive documents, which he stamped profusely with
many flourishes, and we were off for Concepcion, where we arrived shortly after noon and
anchored in 25 feet on a smooth sand bottom.
The northwest of comer of Concepcion is called Bahie Coyote and
contains four or five very good anchorage's. We chose the northernmost, Playa
Santispac,
for its protection from north winds (the wind had shifted to that quadrant and was now
blowing in the twenties) and proximity to its fine restaurant.
Not long after, Scott and Loretta showed up and anchored near us. The
Wellington's were still in Sta. R. and were undecided as to where to go next.
We all ate a fine meal at Ray's Place on the beach. This is a
palapa-style building (palm-thatched roof) with a shell floor, and world-class food. Ray
Limon is a Cubano who was raised in the San Fernando Valley (talks valley-speak quite
fluently). I'm not sure what brought him to this particular beach in Mexico, and one does
not ask too many questions in these situations. At any rate, we're glad he's there-super
restaurant.
We retired early and listened to the howling norther moan and groan as
the boat shuddered at the end of the anchor rode.
Tuesday. Nov 7 Election Day, we took a long walk to the east past Punta
Piedrita out to Punta Arena. The norther was still blowing hard; typical high-pressure
weather in the northern Gulf: bright blue sky, crystal clear air, and big whitecaps on a
cobalt sea. We walked out past the point and talked with some of the RV denizens who hole
up there.
They are an eccentric lot who derives some pleasure from strange
pastimes. For instance, they have created the "Punta Arena Golf and Country Club
Members and Guests only Check in at Pro Shop." Of course, there is no pro shop, but
there are eighteen holes: Tee markers pounded into the sand (each with a distinctive name
such as "St. Andrews Number Nine") and flag sticks placed in the middle of a
circle raked in the sandy gravel. People actually play some sort of game; they carry old
clubs and a piece of Astrotuff, which is placed under the ball-when they can find same.
We hiked back, and some of us were rather tired, so naps were in order.
That night we had a potluck on "Half Cat." Loretta stirred up tasty cruisers'
mishmash, and Scott played bartender with vodka and Crystal Light. He also played some of
his favorite CD's. Bill and I enjoyed two of them. The wind still a-howl, we dinghied back
to "Nina" and crashed somewhere near our bunks.
Wednesday. Nov. 8, we got on the VHF and asked about the elections.
Wow! What a mess of surprises which continue as I write this thing. Since it seemed a bit
calmer, Bill and I pulled the anchor at 0800, "Half Cat" not far behind. As we
rounded Punta Piedrita, the full norther blasted us with lots of spray and discomfort.
Being prudent mariners, we executed a 180 and returned to the anchorage, "Half
Cat" not far behind.
With nothing much on our agenda (except to wait for the norther to blow
itself out), we walked around the west side of the bay down to Playa Concepcion and
visited the Eco Mundo resort. This is a collection of beach houses surrounding a
restaurant/bookstore/shower and bathroom area. The owner, Roy Mahoff, is a transplanted
beach boy from Santa Monica. He runs a nice, clean establishment and rents out kayaks for
guided tours of the area. In addition, there is a hot spring in the shallow water in front
of the joint where one can sit and sip a cool one in the warm water It's a neat place, and
you can get more info by e-mailing ecomundo@aol.com.
This hiking was getting rather old for Bill, so we strolled back to
Ray's for snacks, libations, and a short dinner before being blown back in the dinks to
the boats.
During the night-at last-the wind moderated, and Thursday, Nov. 9, 0600
did us done with the coffee and PBJ sandwiches. We hauled the anchors up and took off for
San Carlos. Quite a few other boats had been near us, riding out the high winds, and soon
we were surrounded by big sail-boats, most of which would round Punta Concepcion and head
south toward La Paz, Cabo San Lucas, and other destinations such as Mazatlan and Puerto
Vallarta.
Pleasant and mercifully uneventful our crossing was. We did see two
small pods of whales spouting and waving their flukes about playfully. "Half
Cat" was near us the whole way, and we both glided into the San Carlos channel at
10:30 p.m.
EPILOGUE
The next day we found the Wellington brothers in their slip. They had
made an attempt to get to Punta Chivato, but had adverse winds, nasty seas, and a folding
dinghy, which disappeared as they were trying to fight their way around the last point. We
felt bad for them. Their timing was off by a day, and they did not have much fun. I told
them we hoped they would have a better time next time, but they replied, "Don't think
there will be a next time." C'est la vie in the sea~of Cortez.
Scott and Loretta had to stay through the weekend to provide "Half
Cat" as the committee boat for the regatta. Bill and I helped set marks Saturday
morning, then got "Nina" on the trailer, cleaned up and ready for my work party
in January. We got back Sunday afternoon, a bit tired, but apparently healthy.
I hope you enjoyed this little account. Will send pictures later.